The Deep South: Quetzals, San Vito and the Golfo Dulce

Savegre Lodge Natural Reserve & Spa. A 400-hectare private cloud forest reserve at 2,200 metres, with over 170 bird species recorded on it and the quetzal among them. Heated rooms and a spa with a sauna, which matters at that altitude.

1. Day 1
   To San Gerardo de DotaOur greeter meets you at arrivals with your welcome pack; about 1½ hours up into the Talamanca to Savegre.
2. Day 2
   The quetzal morningBefore dawn with a local guide who knows which wild avocados are fruiting.
3. Day 3
   The Savegre reserveA guided morning on the lodge's own 400 hectares of cloud forest, with the feeders and the oaks in the afternoon.

At San Gerardo de Dota, the Resplendent Quetzal, in the valley that holds the largest population in the country, with Fiery-throated Hummingbird and Volcano Hummingbird, Black Guan in the oaks, Flame-throated Warbler and flocks of Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher.

Las Cruces Biological Station. The Organization for Tropical Studies' research station near San Vito, close to the Panama border and home to the Wilson Botanical Garden, where the guides are biologists or naturalists. Meals are at set times with the scientists and students, and a private deck looks over the gardens.

1. Day 4
   To San VitoSouth along the mountains to Las Cruces Biological Station.
2. Day 5
   Wilson Botanical GardenA morning in the garden with one of the station's guides, who are biologists or naturalists, for the Snowy-bellied Hummingbird and the Streaked Saltator at the fruit and the flowers.
3. Day 6
   The San Vito specialtiesThe Crested Oropendola at its nesting tree near the station, then, with a local guide, the forest patches near Sabalito where the Lance-tailed Manakin has been seen. A rare chance, never a promise.

At Las Cruces and the Wilson Botanical Garden, the Crested Oropendola, which in Costa Rica lives only near the Panama border, Streaked Saltator, Snowy-bellied Hummingbird and Fiery-billed Aracari. The Rosy Thrush-Tanager is here too, and tricky to find. The Lance-tailed Manakin barely enters the country, near San Vito: a rare chance, never promised.

Esquinas Rainforest Lodge. Thirty minutes from the Golfito airstrip inside Piedras Blancas National Park, in the valley of La Gamba, with the Golfo Dulce forest at the door.

1. Day 7
   To the Golfo DulceDown to the lowlands and Esquinas Rainforest Lodge, in the valley of La Gamba.
2. Day 8
   The La Gamba roadA guided morning along the road by the lodge for Baird's Trogon and the hummingbirds of the far south.
3. Day 9
   Piedras BlancasThe forest of the national park from the lodge's door, for the Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager.

On the Golfo Dulce, Baird's Trogon, fairly common at Esquinas, and the Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager, found only on the Osa and around the Golfo Dulce. The Sapphire-throated Hummingbird, a recent arrival from Panama, has been found on the La Gamba road, and the Speckled Mourner is rare and patchy in this region; both are a chance, not a promise.

Macaw Lodge. A lake in front of the lodge and forest on two sides, between Carara and the Tárcoles bridge, with over 300 species on the lodge list, Sunbittern and Northern Jacana among them.

1. Day 10
   To the PacificNorth up the coast to Macaw Lodge, between Carara and the Tárcoles bridge.
2. Day 11
   Carara National ParkA guided morning in the park with a local birding guide, the macaws at dusk by the Tárcoles bridge.

At Carara and Macaw Lodge, the Scarlet Macaw in the park and at dusk over the Tárcoles bridge, Fiery-billed Aracari crossing the river, Orange-collared Manakin in the forest, with Sunbittern and Northern Jacana on the lodge's lake.