Of the three lodges we use around Arenal, this is the one for the birder who wants the volcano's forest outside the door rather than a drive away. It sits on its own 350-hectare reserve next to the national park, and it began as the Smithsonian's volcano research station.
The land runs from about 600 to 1,100 metres on the wet Caribbean slope, by the lodge's own figures, which is where lowland birds and foothill birds overlap. That overlap is why the list is long, and why an umbrellabird and a Snowcap can turn up on the same trip.
The day runs like a field station's. A guided walk at sunrise, breakfast, then the afternoon up The Nest, the lodge's 28-metre tower, at eye level with the canopy.
The lodge gives its reserve as 350 hectares, 110 of them primary forest, crossed by 11 km of self-guided trails and 800 metres of wheelchair trail. The Nest, the observation tower, stands 28 metres high. The lodge's own guides run a two-hour walk at sunrise and another in the late afternoon, or a full day that joins the two with a break for lunch and a rest. Close by is El Silencio, a private reserve of more than 100 hectares of primary forest with four trails, which the same guides take you to for a morning. The lodge says more than 500 species have been recorded in its forests.
Photo: Arenal Observatory Lodge
Arenal
A Stunning Hotel on Amid 870 Acres of Lush Private Rain Forest
★★★
Built as the Smithsonian's volcano research station, on its own 350-hectare reserve next to Arenal Volcano National Park. The observation deck and the trails from the door are why six of our 45 recent birding itineraries sleep here, level with Trapp Family Lodge for the most.
The two birders ask us about here are the Bare-necked Umbrellabird, a regional endemic of these wet slopes, and the Lovely Cotinga, both on the lodge's own list. With them on the same list, Yellow-eared Toucanet, Keel-billed Toucan and Collared Aracari in the fruiting trees, Great Curassow and Crested Guan walking the trails, and the Keel-billed Motmot on a low perch inside the forest.
The small ones are the reason to bring the scope to the flowers: the Snowcap and the Black-crested Coquette are both on the list, and the Three-wattled Bellbird is a voice before it is a bird. Overhead, look for the White Hawk.
| English | Scientific | Spanish | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bare-necked Umbrellabird | Cephalopterus glabricollis | Pájaro-sombrilla Cuellinudo | Regional endemic |
| Lovely Cotinga | Cotinga amabilis | Cotinga Linda | |
| Yellow-eared Toucanet | Selenidera spectabilis | Tucancillo Orejiamarillo | |
| Keel-billed Toucan | Ramphastos sulfuratus | Tucán Pico Iris | |
| Collared Aracari | Pteroglossus torquatus | Tucancillo Collarejo | |
| Great Curassow | Crax rubra | Pavón Grande | |
| Crested Guan | Penelope purpurascens | Pava Crestada | |
| Keel-billed Motmot | Electron carinatum | Momoto Pico Quilla | |
| Snowcap | Microchera albocoronata | Colibrí Copete de Nieve | Regional endemic |
| Black-crested Coquette | Lophornis helenae | Coqueta Crestinegra | |
| Three-wattled Bellbird | Procnias tricarunculatus | Campanero Tricarunculado | Regional endemic |
| White Hawk | Pseudastur albicollis | Gavilán Blanco |
The rooms are spread across several buildings around planted gardens, and which view you get depends on the building: forest for La Casona and the Standard rooms, volcano and forest for the Smithsonian rooms, volcano and lake for the Junior Suites. Larger groups can take a whole villa. Everything meets at El Jilguero, the restaurant, whose floor-to-ceiling windows look straight at the volcano. Breakfast and a guided morning walk come with the room, and the trails, the observation tower and a small museum are open to guests. Afternoons are for the three-level pool and jacuzzi or Chato's Bar at sunset. The lodge is quiet at night: the main gate closes at 11 p.m.
Meals. El Jilguero, Costa Rican and international, breakfast plus à la carte lunch and dinner, kids menu; Chato's Bar. À la carte breakfast is included (Smithsonian page).
Perfect for: a multigenerational family where grandparents want an easy paved path and the kids want the pool.
Birding Arenal Volcano National Park from the lodge next to it: the umbrellabird, cotingas and toucanets, the hanging bridges and our trips.
See the placeThe Mistico hanging bridges near Arenal put you level with the canopy birds, with a local guide and the volcano in view. Over 350 species recorded.
See the placeWant to add a luxury stay to your trip? See every hotel we represent on CostaRica.Org (opens in a new window). We plan birding lodges and beach resorts in one trip.
Tell us the birds you want, your dates and how you like to travel, and we will come back with a first itinerary: the lodges in the right order and how many nights each one really needs. That first version is just a place to start.
Or call us: 1 (800) 996-1139 from the US and Canada, +506 4052-2140 in Costa Rica.
Keep going: add more birds, lodges or tours, then turn your Wishlist into a trip.
